A real institution. One of the most important landmarks in the gastronomy scene of Lake Garda. But also a place which boasts a longevity that’s so rare in the world of restaurants, and that’s always been matched by a consistent quality research, as well as the desire to continue to compete and to keep in tune with the contemporary. This is likely to be the secret that allowed Esplanade restaurant in Desenzano to resist the turnover of fashions and trends, and get to celebrate the milestone of 25 years of Michelin Star: it was in fact 1990 when the legendary french guide for gourmets decided to reward the unstoppable progress made since the opening in 1979. And Esplanade has been able to keep that Star up to now, thanks to an approach with no half measures in the concept of quality but also to a sincere devotion for hospitality and attention to customer satisfaction.
“At the beginning this was only a sort of beach with fast food for people who came to swim – says Emanuele Signorini, now as then head of the Esplanade -. When I got here for the first time with my friends and the associates, Idalgo Picinardi and Giuseppe Togni, I immediately realized the potential of this beautiful location on the lakeside, but as we all came from experiences of a certain rank, the goal from the beginning was to revolutionize everything and to focus on a high-class restaurants. ” At first, remembers Emanuele with a smile, it was not easy.
“We aimed everything on the extreme freshness and quality of products. And we knew that no unsatisfied customer could leave our place, because in this business the second chance option is not provided. Then fortunately curiosity was set in motion with word of mouth. And since then we have not stopped. ”
In the 80s, the Esplanade became famous for flambè dishes prepared to the lamp directly at the table, much in vogue then, but also for a particularly rich wine list: hence the roots of an evolution that has led Eplanade over the years to constantly update the proposal to the parameters of excellence cuisine, thanks in particular to the work of chef Massimo Fezzardi, who arrived in the kitchen of the restaurant a couple of decades ago, and is now in association with Signorini after the friendly dissolution of its partnership with the two old members (now working in another famous Garda restaurant, Villa Aurora in Soiano). The total respect of fresh products seems to be Fezzardi dogma, combined with an approach wisely balanced between creativity and tradition. From this attitude come really amazing reinterpretations of old mediterranean classics as the wonderful Panzanella with Shellfish Scented with Mint, a real explosion of flavors, dishes like Gragnano linguine with sea urchins and shellfish Marinated in Garda oil, or the research of particular sea fish varieties as Scarpena, Pezzogna, or an extraordinary Dotto on Sweet Leeks Cream, Herbs, Homegrown Stewed Cuttlefish and black polenta.
And what about the lake traditions? They’re there to be discovered in lake fish dishes of lake that Emanuele and Max put at the head of each category in the menu, as it should be for a restaurant located directly on Lake Garda waters, and in a rich tasting menu. “We began to offer it only when we found a trusted fisherman that still supplies us today with quality products from the lake – explains Emanuele -. As for the fish of the sea, we rely on a Sardinian family, who sends daily catch by air to a member of the family who has settled in Veneto and delivers daily to us. Believe me: Sardinia fish is unbeatable. That ‘s what we mean when we speak of attention to quality. ”
Attention and careful knowledge of cooking techniques is another fundamental aspect Esplanade cuisine: one that, as Signorini explains, “continues to deal with the characteristics of solidity and substance which are basic elements of Italian tradition. And tradition will always win: I’m sure in a thousand years from now everybody will still be eating a good lasagna.”
In the Explanade menu there’s also room for meat, and sweets are all sumptuos and delicate. The wine list, curated directly by Emanuele which has been a passionate sommelier for many years now, spawns something like 1,700 different wines. “But for those who come here I propose Lugana, because we are fortunate to have in our area one of the biggest and most loved white wines of the moment” – says Signorini, who has a word to say also for ospitality. “For us it is as important as food: the human relationship established with a customer is important to turn dinner into a real emotion.” The main Esplanade tasting menu costs 100 Euros, while the small one is 80 as the Degustazione Lago (Lake fish tasting menu), while à la carte you will spend an average of 100 Euros, excluding wine.
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