“In order to move forward you must take a step back.” A few but signficant words to synthesize an important decision just like the transition to organic farming. Lucia Zuliani, who leads the eponymous historical winery in Padenghe del Garda (17 acres total), pronounced this phrase some time ago, in another context, illustrating the history of the cellar to a group of guests: today she considers it perfect to tell the conversion to the new methodology, started in 2011 with the usual three years period. The 2014 vintage was therefore the first certified in full effect: this year the first official organic wines will be available on the market, especially with regard to the White and Chiaretto, though it will take much more time for the Reds.
“I’m really convinced that today to go forward is to go back, to the time in which organic was normal although nobody used this word- said Lucia, who leads with passion the family business with his mother Eleonora after the passing in 2013 of her father Emilio, a true pioneer in the history of wine production in the Garda area -. We only have to reconsider out history, considering that our family has been producing wine since 1589 in this same place and cellar. After all I came to do what my grandfather did in the old times, discussing this passage with my father before his death: and now I am convinced that there is no other way. ”
The first results? Extremely satisfactory. “The wines have changed, I think the quality has improved. Organic is a means to strengthen the link with the terroir, that for an area like Valtènesi is very important to escape the dangers of globalization. ”
Zuliani exports about 80% of production: this also includes sales to foreign customers that buy the wine directly in Padenghe, taking the time to visit the historic and beautiful 16th century cellar. Total production is about 50 thousand bottles.
THE WINE
The label not to be missed? Surely the “Paxtibi”, a classic method brut nature with no added sugar and liqueur made exclusively by white vinification of Groppello, red grapes native of Valtènesi: it’s really ths sparklig wine you do not expect in this area, reflecting in the glass all the particular character of this territory while interpreting Groppello in a challenging way.
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