Hidden away in the hills of the Valtenesi, in the quietness of a landscape where the days seem marked by the rhythms of the past, still beats the soul o a homely agriculture, deeply rooted in the traditions of the territory but also open to innovation in the name of constant quality improvement: the Delai winery in Puegnago del Garda is a positive example of generational renewal in the name of continuity. An activity that the current owner, Sergio Delai, has collected twenty years ago from the hands of his father Natalino (still at his side for the work in the country) after realizing that life in the industry was not for him. The vineyard instead has always fascinated him since childhood: and between vineyards he decided to return to expand his father’s business and bet on its future.
Today, Delai winery, almost isolated between the districts of Puegnago, on a natural balcony from which you can enjoy one of those breathtaking views that only Lake Garda can offer, is a reality of 11 hectares of vineyards, which are joined by two of olive groves. Dimensions to which Sergio arrived with patience, from an early heritage of two hectares, and doubling over the past decade a production that today has reached 90,000 bottles and over six labels.
“My father was my great teacher in wine making – tells Sergio-. He has always worked with an eye toward the final quality of the product, and taught me to respect the tradition: something that I still do today, but without forgetting that technology and innovation can give fundamental results to improve the product without changing identity “.
Hence the great attention to work in the vineyards, which are divided into several plots between Puegnago, Raffa and Polpenazze, including recent installations aged between 15 and 18 years and some historical vineyards of the early ’50s, still in production . “I always try to reserve great attention to the practices of defoliation and thinning, necessary to arrive at harvest time with a fruit in perfect condition – explains Sergio -. I treat and work each vineyard separately, to make the most of the distinctive features of the different soils. ”
Groppello, of course, is the main grape variety, followed closely by the Marzemino, which in recent years Sergio chose to increase in the wake of the success of the Sovenigo Benaco Bresciano IGT (Marzemino, of course), in which approximately 20% of grapes is subjected to drying before processing. This proceeding is also applied to autochthonous Groppello in Mogrì, the most representative label of Delai (about which we talk separately below), and also to other types on a range especially focused on reds, among which there’s also the surprise of an unusual Barbera (called Fronsaga, is aged in new barrels for two years and the vintage currently proposed is 2010). Of course, there’s Chiaretto, which was given the name of Notterosa (registered trademark): Delai produces it as part of the Doc Garda Bresciano, and the 2015 vintage is characterized by a bouquet of really delicate and delicious scents, thanks to an extraordinary harvest.
“It ‘s always been an important wine for us, but it has become even more so in recent years – says Sergio -. The demand has continued to grow and we have accordingly adjusted the production even though our main vocation was always focused primarily on red wine. ” The blend of Chiaretto is also the basis of a delicate sparkling rosé Charmat method. And among the various products of the Delai range you can not forget extra virgin olive oil, a small production of about 1300 liters in which there’s also space for a Casaliva monocultiva.
Delai is a completely family-run company, in which Sergio is joined by his wife Raffaella who takes care of the business aspects: the primary activity is direct sales to the public, fueled by the realization of a well-kept interior shop and the availability to open daily to the public (although it is always best to telephone first before going on site). “In recent years we have also developed the tastings in the winery only by appointment – concludes Sergio-. But also exports are going well: our wines have even arrived in China, even though the first market remains Germany “.
The bottle.
The primary vocation of Delai is oriented to red and when asked what is the wine he loves most, the answer is ready: the Garda Bresciano Groppello Mogrì. It’s a particular wine, where the grape that makes the territory of Valtènesi unique is partly subjected to drying (the percentage of the total is between 15 and 18%) before processing. “Not everyone in the area uses this practice that we’ve been adopting for many years – explains Sergio -. The grapes are dried in boxes for about 40 days, to increase the wine complexity and structure, but also to give more longevity to the product. ”
Mogrì is the name of the area in Puegnago where the vineyard is, a hilly terrain facing south, just below the charming lakes Sovenigo, where the grapes are harvested very carefully at the right stage of ripeness. The wine remains in iron barrels “a winter and a summer,” to come to market in less than a year after harvest, between July and August: the final result is rich in spice and red berries notes to the nose, for a wine in good balance between alcohol and exaltation of the fruit.
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